Ask an Artist: Iron Brush Edition

9 09 2009

By Sarah

Today’s expert feature is a response to reader Carol’s question for her 15 year old daughter’s eye makeup…

Carol, for a 15 year old girl I like to keep a look that is clean and simple, yet playful.  It really all depends on your comfort level, and your daughter’s.  A good basic eye look for a younger girl who is just starting out with makeup is to take a light shade and dust it from lash to brow, creating a blank canvas for anything she will apply.

From there it’s nice to add something a few shades deeper to the lid only, to give a little depth.  Depending on her skin tone, that can range from a soft, shimmery pink, to a deep bronze.
Photo courtesy of Chantecaille

Photo courtesy of Chantecaille

Eyeliner is optional, but if she does want to add it, I would suggest either a brown or smokey gray color.  Black can be a little harsh and overpowering on a young girl.  Pencils are easiest to apply for beginners, and she can start with just a simple smudged line along the top lashline only.  The biggest mistake people make with eyeliner is try to draw a line above the lashline.  Have her angle the pencil down in the lashes and use gentle sweeping motions to blend the liner from the outer corner towards the inner corner.  After she applies, she can lightly smudge it using a q-tip.

Mascara is what will really bring out her eyes, and give her that finished look. I would recommend a simple formula that doesn’t have fibers and thickening properties, so her lashes will have a clean, glossy look to them.  Gently wiggling the brush back and forth from the base of the lashes to the tips will ensure she is getting the maximum benefit from her mascara.  This is her last step of eye makeup application.

Photo courtesy of Laura Mercier

Photo courtesy of Laura Mercier

Also with young girls, shimmer and more vibrant colors can be very pretty.  Try a light shimmery lilac on the lid, with a gray liner pencil and black mascara.  It’s a nice pop of color that is generally flattering on most people, and gets her out of the “basic brown” shadows.

Once she masters doing this simple look, she can learn shading techniques, such as crease color, and more advanced things that we can go into later.

Here are some shade recommendations:

-Chantecaille Peony

-Bobbi Brown Rose Gold

-Laura Mercier Sandstone

-Laura Mercier Guava

-Clinique Nude Sparkle touch tint (Ed. note: This product appears to be discontinued, but MAC’s Paint Pots are very similar and can be used as an alternative.)



4 responses

9 09 2009

Hi Sarah,
What is a nice lilac shade? I am looking for one myself!

9 09 2009

Lisa Bobbie Brown makes one called “heather” I believe. Also Chantecaille Lilac Rose is gorgeous. Hmm… those are just two off the top of my head, I’ll try to come up with some more!

9 09 2009

Sarah, this sounds wonderful! Just right for her. Thanks so much!

9 09 2009

It always bewildered me as to why people think that young girls shouldn’t wear “too much” makeup. I mean, it is a little strange when you see an 8 year old in a full face of makeup (mostly because what 8 year old needs foundation and what 8 year old wants to look sexy), but dramatic eye makeup on a 15 year old, or (god forbid) thickening mascara, doesn’t seem inappropriate. And anyway, it doesn’t matter so much if you look cracked out when you are younger because that’s the time you can experiment without it impacting your life too much. When you are 30 and work in an office, crazy makeup probably won’t be allowed, but when you are a teenager, anything goes!

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