Ask an Artist: Iron Brush Edition

6 09 2009

From Sheila: One of our readers sent in a question that got me thinking … why don’t we pose this question to a few different Painted Ladies Experts and get a few different viewpoints.  So, there you have it, and here’s our inaugural Iron Brush Challenge, with the first response coming from Nicole Valentine. Enjoy!

Carol asked: Well, I do have a request, not for me but for my daughter. She just turned 15 and knows nothing about how to apply eye makeup. Would one of the lovely makeup pros do a detailed piece on applying shadow, eyeliner, mascara, etc…all the steps to creating beautiful eyes? Thanks so much!

Painted Ladies: Here’s Nicole’s step-by-step for achieving a fresh and beautiful look:

  • Begin with an eye base, such as MAC’s PainterlyPaint Pot, which is waterproof and will keep the shadow colors fresh the entire day. You can apply this with your ring finger.
  • Add a soft champagne shimmer (MAC All That Glitters), or even a soft brown (MAC Omega) all over the lid using a flat brush, such as MAC #242.
  • Then use a lighter shadow that’s a shade or two lighter than your skin color and apply it under your brow, blending it into your lid color. I like MAC Brule for this purpose.
  • Next, add a color that’s three shades darker than your skin to the crease. It can be a brown, pink, peachy, or plum tone, and for this particular look I’d recommend MAC Texture, a golden brown that looks good with many different lid colors.
  • To apply the crease color, you first need a good brush, and I like MAC #217 for this purpose. Start by placing the brush on the very corner of your eyelid and push the shadow into your crease. Then, use a back-and-forth motion to blend the color towards your inner eye. Remember this little tip: the first place you touch your brush on your eye gives the most color; Blend along the crease from that point to create a pretty and blended look.
  • Another tip: If you are having trouble finding your crease, feel your brow bone with your finger. The indentation under your brow bone is your crease.
  • After you have a nicely defined crease, add a thick line of black or brown liner to the top of your eye. You can use eyeshadow with an angled brush, or you can use liquid, or even a pencil. Just use whichever method you feel the most comfortable with. If you want to add liner to the bottom of your eye, do not line it all the way across. This will make your eyes appear smaller, and if used, is generally better for a night look.
  • I like using a shadow with an angled brush for under the eye because you can do a soft line and smudge it in very easily if needed. Touch the brush to the very corner on the outside of your eye and pull it in about half way, using your lash line as a guide.
  • Then apply mascara. When you touch the brush to your eye lashes, push the brush into your lashes and wiggle it around a little bit. This will help to comb through the lashes evenly and to ensure that you don’t get clumping. I recommend several coats to make sure your eyelashes stand out.
  • A clear brow gel is a fast and easy way to groom the brows, but if you need a little more definition, you can use a colored brow gel, an eyebrow pencil, or a brow powder with an angle brush. The brow gel is the quickest option for me, and MAC makes some great colors.
  • Finally, add some lip gloss and you’re done! Simple, beautiful, and can be done in ten minutes, give or take.  
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